This page is intended to help those who have a brain make a decision on buying a battery for their vehicle.

 

  90% of the information you read online about high voltage batteries is bullshit.

 

If you can't decide what to do after reading this then just set your car on fire.

 

The first question is do I need a hybrid battery?

A.

When I go inside my smelly vehicle and turn the key or press the start button I DON'T have any lights on the dash. 

Solution: Jump start the small 12 Volt Lead Acid battery like a regular gas vehicle remember positive to positive, negative to negative. If the symptom continues replace the 12v battery.

 

B.

I have warning lights on my dash like the ones listed below.

 

IMA light, Check hybrid system, Check high voltage system, propulsion power reduced, Stop safely now, Red triangle, Yellow wrench, Service engine soon, Red car with an explanation mark in the middle

 

 (Where does it say change your hybrid battery on the dash? nowhere) 

 

The start of the Solution:

Always verify first by retrieving the codes at Autozone or O'reilly Auto Parts. If you already paid someone to get the codes than verify them below.

 

(If you don't have any codes but you do have warning lights on the dash you're going to need a high end scan tool like Launch, Autel, Snap-On, Matco)

 

(And don't clear the codes thinking you fixed your problem, you don't fix a problem by clearing the codes then you're stranded on the road like an idiot)

 

Do I have any of these codes word by word?

 

Replace Hybrid Battery

Hybrid Battery Pack Deterioration

Battery block 1 through 20

Module Voltage Variation

Battery Energy Control Module

Hybrid Battery State of charge low

Hybrid Battery Disabled 

Hybrid Battery Pack Voltage Variation exceeded limit

Stack A through S not balanced

Hybrid Battery Voltage Sensor A

Voltage sensor performance 

EV system Voltage Low

Maximum battery charge level reduced

 

For chevy volt vehicles ONLY,  Propulsion Power Reduced on the display is also a common indicator that the EV battery is deteriorated. The scan tool doesn't always display codes.

 

If you have Hybrid Powertrain control module requested illumination, this means the Hybrid Computer under the dash in the front turned on the light on the display.

 

(It doesn't mean replace the damn computer or the hybrid battery)

 

If you have P0562 system voltage low then your 12v battery is low and/or your EXTERNAL charger for the 12v battery is weak.

 

If you have any code with the word ISOLATION you're going to have a hard time. An Insulation tester tool is required to diagnose each high voltage component on the vehicle. Replacing the battery will be a gamble without verifying that it lost insulation.

 

(This code will not allow the vehicle to start unless it's cleared but there is still lights on the dash)

 

If you have Hybrid Battery codes listed above and also have codes with these definitions:

Engine failed to start/ Engine no start

Engine poor performance

Bank 1 or 2 Lean

Misfires

or a symptom described as below

''the vehicle idles and then turns off COMPLETELY''

 

(Add 10 dollars of gas and clean the throttle body FIRST then see if this symptom is solved. If not check fuel pressure)

 

These codes and symptom must be address first before replacing the hybrid battery.

 

Otherwise you're going to deteriorate the new hybrid battery.

 

If your PLUG-IN VEHICLE has decreased it's electric range and you don't have lights on the dash, you still need a battery. The cells have LOST ENERGY but are still balanced enough that the warning light's haven't illuminated 

 

If the mpg is driving you nuts and you DON'T have lights on the dash make sure the catalytic converter isn't clogged then make sure the oxygen sensor 1 on each bank isn't stuck on the lean side, then replace the hybrid battery.

 

So what are my options now that I know I need a hybrid battery? 

 

 A. 

The best quality right now is OEM from the Manufacture, life expectancies are 8 to 10 years.

The reason they don't last 14 to 17 years is because the manufacture decreased the electrolyte that goes inside the Plastic Prismatic cells for Nickel Metal Hydride batteries.

 

(But you have to pay up and you don't want to, that's why you're on this page so keep reading)

 

B.

Remanufactured, Rebuilt, Refurbished, Reconditioned, Redundant

Life Expectancy 3 days to 6 years

 

Yes, there are idiots that can provide a battery and make your vehicle last 3 days before the light comes on the dash again.

 

Let's get micro because some of you just don't understand but the reality is, you do understand.

Most of you are just cheap and if you're an engineer or a mechanic you end up replacing the dead cells ignoring all the other factors that make up a healthy cell to make a healthy battery such as these:

 

Voltage of each cell at the moment you took off the cover

High Self Discharge

Capacity

Resistance

Is the co-conductive network healthy

Life expectancy per cell per vehicle

How old is the cell

Is the cell leaking

Must the cells be in series with the rest for testing

Was the amp draw to high or to low for testing

Was the cut off voltage to high or to low for testing

Was there a heat spot from a rat den inside the battery

Did the customer drive it for 1 month or longer with the light on 

How many miles does that cell have

Was the fan clogged

Was the battery already repaired

Have the nuts change color due to high current draw

Are the contacts corroded

Etc.

 

Life expectancy overrides all technicality our batteries last an average 5 years/70k. 

 

(Correct, they don't last forever)

 

Can I install new cylindrical or plastic prismatic aftermarket cells from China?

 

Yes, we have tested these types of cells from 5 different companies in China and the quality isn't consistent.

This option will be a gamble no different than any re-manufactured battery that doesn't have an average life expectancy.

 

Lastly more amp hour doesn't mean the cells are going to last longer nor give you more power on the road or better mpg for a hybrid. The Hybrid Powertrain control module is already programmed to use a percentage of current/voltage for acceleration and on electric mode only. 

 

Can I convert my vehicle to lithium ion?

 

Yes it's possible just have a fire extinguisher inside the vehicle because it's not SAFE. If the vehicle is designed for lead acid or nickel metal hydride that means the engineers did not include a battery management system. A voltage sensor computer is not the same thing.

 

Secondly the charging and discharging parameters for lead acid, dry nickel metal hydride and wet nickel metal hydride are more lenient unlike Lithium Ion where the cut off voltages MUST be respected.

 

( By the way Lithium Ion can't be reconditioned and waking up the cell because it's asleep is not the same thing)

 

C.

Sell the vehicle 

 

If you're embarrassed of going out in your hybrid with your loser friends and unbearable relatives then fine sell the vehicle.

 

Just do the math first add up all the repair costs, gas, insurance, vehicle payments annually and then compare it to the costs of the vehicle you previously owned or want to buy. 

 

 

Thank you for reading, our sales representatives will save a lot of time answering your questions.