The first question is do I need a hybrid battery?

A.

When I go inside the vehicle and turn the key or press the start button I DON'T have any lights on the dash. 

Solution: Jump start the small 12 Volt Lead Acid battery like a regular gas vehicle remember positive to positive, negative to negative. If the symptom continues replace the 12v battery.

 

B.

I have warning lights on my dash like the ones listed below.

 

IMA light, Check hybrid system, Check high voltage system, Propulsion Power Reduced, Stop safely now, Red triangle, Yellow wrench, Service engine soon, Red car with an explanation mark 

 

Where does it say replace your hybrid battery on the dash? Nowhere.

 

The start of the Solution:

Always verify first by retrieving the codes at Autozone or O'reilly Auto Parts. If you already paid someone to get the codes then verify them below.

 

(Don't erase the codes thinking you solved your problem, then your stranded on the road like an idiot)

 

(If you don't have any codes but you DO have warning lights on the dash you're going to need a high-end scan tool like Launch, Autel, Snap-On, Matco)

 

Do I have any of these codes word by word?

 

Replace Hybrid Battery

Hybrid Battery Pack Deterioration

Battery Module Overheating

Battery block 1 through 20

Module Voltage Variation

Battery Energy Control Module

Hybrid Battery State of charge low

Hybrid Battery Disabled 

Hybrid Battery Pack Voltage Variation exceeded limit

Stack A through S not balanced

Hybrid Battery Voltage Sensor A

Voltage sensor performance 

EV system Voltage Low

Maximum battery charge level reduced

 

For chevy volt vehicles ONLY,  Propulsion Power Reduced on the display is also a common indicator that the EV battery is deteriorated. 

 

If you have Hybrid Powertrain control module requested illumination, this means the Hybrid Computer under the dash in the front turned on the light on the display.

 

(It doesn't mean replace the damn computer or the hybrid battery)

 

If you have P0562 system voltage low then your 12v battery is low and/or your EXTERNAL charger for the 12v battery is weak.

 

If you have any code with the word ISOLATION you're going to have a hard time. An Insulation tester tool is required to diagnose each high voltage component on the vehicle. Replacing the battery will be a gamble without verifying that it lost insulation.

 

For Chevy Volt Only, Verify that you're not leaking any COOLANT from the 3 reservoirs, this will trigger isolation fault codes and turn on the check high voltage system on the dash. The leak must be fixed first even if it doesn't make any sense in that melon head of yours.

 

If you have Hybrid Battery codes listed above and also have codes with these definitions:

Engine Failed to start/ Engine no start

Engine Poor Performance

Bank 1 or 2 Lean

Misfires

 

 

These codes must be address first before replacing the hybrid battery.

Otherwise you're going to deteriorate the new hybrid battery.

 

If you have this symptom described as below:

 

 The vehicle idles and/or drives then turns off COMPLETELY 

 

Add 10 dollars of gas and clean the throttle body FIRST then see if this symptom is solved.

Don't touch the orange switch because then you don't know how to put it back right.

 

 If your PLUG-IN VEHICLE has decreased it's electric range and you don't have lights on the dash, you still need a battery. The cells have LOST ENERGY but are still balanced enough that the warning light's haven't illuminated 

 

If the mpg is driving you nuts and you DON'T have warning light's on the dash, first make sure the catalytic converter isn't clogged then check tire pressure then replace the hybrid battery.

 

So what are my options now that I know I need a hybrid battery? 

 

 A. 

The best quality right now is OEM from the Manufacture, life expectancies are 8 to 12 years.

 

 

The reason why new battery packs sold after the year 2015 don't last 14 to 17 years like the packs sold before that year is because the manufacture decreased the electrolyte that goes inside the Plastic Prismatic cells for Nickel Metal Hydride batteries.

 

If the vehicle you have has a lithium ion hybrid battery the life expectancy is 10 to 14 years

 

Clearly the high voltage batteries don't last a lifetime and Lithium ion isn't the best alternative

 

 

B.

Remanufactured, Rebuilt, Refurbished, Reconditioned

Life Expectancy 1 day to 6 years

 

Yes, there are Corporations and Sole-Proprietors  that can provide a high voltage battery and make your vehicle last 1 day before the light comes on the dash again.

 

Let's get micro because some of you just don't understand but the reality is, you do understand.

 

 

Most of us are just cheap and that is enough to override commonsense.

 

 

Regardless if you're an engineer or a mechanic you end up replacing the dead cells ignoring all the other factors that make up a healthy cell to make a long lasting battery such as these:

 

High Self Discharge

Capacity

Resistance

Co-Conductive network behavior 

Life expectancy per cell per vehicle

How old is the cell

Is the cell leaking

How much electrolyte does the cell have

Must the cells be in series with the rest for testing

Was the amp draw to high or to low for testing

Was the cut off voltage to high or to low for testing

Was there a heat spot from a rat den inside the battery

Did the customer drive it for 1 month or longer with the light on 

How many miles does that cell have

Was the fan clogged

Was the battery already repaired

Have the nuts change color due to high current draw

Are the contacts corroded

Etc.

 

If all you're doing is fixing and selling cars or you're a neurotic electronic hobbyist than have at it swap the cells that you think are bad.

 

Life expectancy overrides all technicality, it takes years of data and dedication to put together a long lasting high voltage battery.

 

Our batteries last an average of 5 years/70k without you having to return multiple times within the warranty period.

 

Can I install new cylindrical or plastic prismatic aftermarket cells from China?

 

Yes, we have tested these types of cells from 5 different companies in China and the quality isn't consistent some have been great some have not.

 

This option will be a gamble no different than any re-manufactured battery that doesn't have an average life expectancy.

 

More amp hour doesn't mean the cells are going to last longer nor give you more power on the road or better mpg.

 

 

The Hybrid Powertrain control module is already programmed to use a percentage of current/voltage for acceleration and for electric mode purposes. 

 

Can I convert my vehicle to lithium ion?

 

Yes it's possible just have a fire extinguisher inside the vehicle because it's not SAFE. If the vehicle is designed for lead acid or nickel metal hydride that means the engineers did not include a battery management system. A voltage sensor computer is not the same thing.

 

Secondly the charging and discharging parameters for lead acid, dry nickel metal hydride and wet nickel metal hydride are more lenient unlike Lithium Ion where the cut off voltages MUST be respected.

 

(Lithium Ion can't be reconditioned)

 

C.

Sell the vehicle 

We see customers make this decision all the time and it doesn't make any sense unless you have a smelly beat up vehicle that you want to get rid off. 

If the goal was to drive a hybrid in the first place to save money how does buying a brand new car with an inflated price tag or a used car with miles expecting a repair eventually, make any financial sense?

 

Add up all the expenses first then proceed