The first question is do I need a hybrid battery?

A.

When I go inside the vehicle and turn the key or press the start button I DON'T have any lights on the dash. 

Solution: Jump start the small 12 Volt Lead Acid battery like a regular gas vehicle remember positive to positive, negative to negative. If the symptom continues replace the 12v battery.

 

B.

I have warning lights on my dash like the ones listed below.

 

IMA light, Check hybrid system, Check high voltage system, Propulsion Power Reduced, Stop safely now, Red triangle, Yellow wrench, Service engine soon, Red car with an explanation mark 

 

Where does it say replace your hybrid battery on the dash? Nowhere.

 

The start of the Solution:

Always verify first by retrieving the codes at Autozone or O'reilly Auto Parts. If you already paid someone to get the codes then verify them below.

 

(Don't erase the codes thinking you solved your problem, then your stranded on the road like an idiot)

 

(If you don't have any codes but you DO have warning lights on the dash you're going to need a high-end scan tool like Launch, Autel, Snap-On, Matco)

 

Do I have any of these codes word by word?

 

Replace Hybrid Battery

Hybrid Battery Pack Deterioration

Battery Module Overheating

Battery block 1 through 20

Module Voltage Variation

Battery Energy Control Module

Hybrid Battery State of charge low

Hybrid Battery Disabled 

Hybrid Battery Pack Voltage Variation exceeded limit

Stack A through S not balanced

Hybrid Battery Voltage Sensor A

Voltage sensor performance 

EV system Voltage Low

Maximum battery charge level reduced

 

For chevy volt vehicles ONLY,  Propulsion Power Reduced on the display is also a common indicator that the EV battery is deteriorated. 

 

If you have Hybrid Powertrain control module requested illumination, this means the Hybrid Computer under the dash in the front turned on the light on the display.

 

(It doesn't mean replace the damn computer or the hybrid battery)

 

If you have P0562 system voltage low then your 12v battery is low and/or your EXTERNAL charger for the 12v battery is weak.

 

If you have any code with the word ISOLATION you're going to have a hard time. An Insulation tester tool is required to diagnose each high voltage component on the vehicle. Replacing the battery will be a gamble without verifying that it lost insulation.

 

For Chevy Volt Only, Verify that you're not leaking any COOLANT from the 3 reservoirs, this will trigger isolation fault codes and turn on the check high voltage system on the dash. The leak must be fixed first even if it doesn't make any sense in that melon head of yours.

 

If you have Hybrid Battery codes listed above and also have codes with these definitions:

Engine Failed to start/ Engine no start

Engine Poor Performance

Bank 1 or 2 Lean

Misfires

 

 

These codes must be address first before replacing the hybrid battery.

Otherwise you're going to deteriorate the new hybrid battery.

 

If you have this symptom described as below:

 

 The vehicle idles and/or drives then turns off COMPLETELY 

 

Add 10 dollars of gas and clean the throttle body FIRST then see if this symptom is solved.

Don't touch the orange switch because then you don't know how to put it back right.

 

 If your PLUG-IN VEHICLE has decreased it's electric range and you don't have lights on the dash, you still need a battery. The cells have LOST ENERGY but are still balanced enough that the warning light's haven't illuminated 

 

If the mpg is driving you nuts and you DON'T have warning light's on the dash, first make sure the catalytic converter isn't clogged then check tire pressure then replace the hybrid battery.